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The androgynous nature of the Goths is appealing to the young because it is sexually unthreatening.

Teenage girls are frightened of manliness: they like boys who look like girls. Many of the alluring women of our time - Nigella Lawson, Debbie Harry, Chrissie Hynde, Sophie Ellis Bextor, Lily Allen - have a touch of the Goth about them.

Dye in my hair and polish on my toes, I must be an Emo.

I play guitar and write suicide notes, I must be an Emo.'The courting of misery and death is a long-established teenage tradition.

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The Emos - short for Emotional - regard themselves as a cool, young sub-set of the Goths.Although it is invariably described as a 'secret shame', there is actually a streak of exhibitionism about it.The internet has many sites dedicated to Emo fashion (dyed black hair brushed over your face, layering, black, black, black), Emo bands (Green Day, My Chemical Romance), Emo conversation (sighing, wailing, poetry). Wear a child's T-shirt with a slogan such as 'Unhappy Chick' and drive a Vespa.To achieve that just-got-out-of-acoffin look, you need corsets, capes, Celtic crosses, an unseeing stare and a prop such as a slightly mutilated china doll dragged along in one hand.For those of us who have lived through Siouxsie And The Banshees and the Rocky Horror Show, the look is depressingly retro.

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